Penside Coffee Break

Yesterday was a day off and we opted to return to Umm Qais, the probable site of Jesus’ encounter with the demoniac of the Gadarenes. (We first visited Umm Qais in 2009.)

On our way, we got lost.

I have discovered that getting lost is par for the course when we are our own tour guides in a country that does not mark many of their road signs in English! Up here in the North where we are now living and where Umm Qais is, not many people speak English, unlike Amman, Jordan’s capital. So, between mostly-Arabic signage and difficulty in getting proper directions from strangers, getting lost is almost inevitable. But getting lost often presents us with the most interesting and unplanned encounters.

We were traveling north instead of west and were yet blissfully unaware of our error. An eid (Muslim festival) must be on the way because there were pens along the road with sheep and goats in them. Families will buy a sheep or goat for some of the eids. Hence, pens for easy shopping.

 Bill stopped the car by one of the pens and I snapped some photos. The young guys tending the sheep noticed us and came over to the car. They were excited to talk to us. Before long, it did not take a common language for us to realize that we were being invited to share these guys’ coffee.

Unfortunately, we could not make them realize that we hate coffee. They brought a pot and tiny cup over to our car. Bill took a sip and handed the cup back.

They then offered the cup to me. I managed to decline, despite their insistence, not only because I hate coffee but because, at this point, I realized the coffee was being served in a community cup!

When I refused, one of the guys took the cup and drank from it instead of me. Everybody was happy. They were happy because they could share their coffee with us (at least one sip) and I was happy that they did not get offended at my refusal. Well, maybe Bill was not entirely happy. I think the taste of that bitter sip of coffee lingered on his tongue for hours!!

We asked the guys their names. Turns out both of their names are Ahmed, or so they said. Ahmed and Ahmed Coffee Company. Somewhere north of Irbid on (unmarked) Route 35. Even if you don't like the coffee, you won't find friendlier people anywhere!